Driving on Kerrys Beautiful Coast

Wild Atlantic Way Co. Kerry      

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This is a guide to driving the Kerry coast.Kerry is simply the most dramatically scenic county in Ireland. Mountain backdrops, a rugged winding coast, its picture postcard stuff when it’s not covered in soft Irish mist that is, but that has its charm also.  Bear in mind also its 350km of sometimes narrow and winding road so allow plenty of time for your journey. Consider a private tour of Ireland with your very own chauffeur guide.

 Kenmare town is a great base in which to begin your Wild Atlantic Way adventure in spectacular Co. Kerry! Kenmare is a beautiful idyllic heritage town nestled in the hills and valleys on the fabled Ring of Kerry and hugs the shoreline of tranquil Kenmare bay.  Its many lovely shops, gourmet restaurants and unique pubs with plenty of live music make Kenmare a popular stop for tourists. Or what about afternoon tea in the nearby Sheen Falls hotel? The beautiful lesser explored GlenInchiquin Park nearby is a must for nature lovers and those looking for a place of tranquillity with its inspirational scenery, glens, waterfalls and mountain passes.

Leaving Kenmare we head along the Ring of Kerry route toward Sneem with its lovely fast flowing River flowing through its sweet little village, a nice spot to stop for some pictures or to check out one of the little craft shops. The luxurious Parknasilla hotel is located near here where many famous people have stayed through the years. From Sneem you head inland before the sea is seen again with gorgeous ocean views! You’re on the Wild Atlantic now! Perhaps stop at the ancient Irish stone fort of Staigue, a nice spot in itself. Then on to Irelands only beach bar at the delightful Castle Cove.

From here drive on to Caherdaniel and Derrynane House and National Park where the famous Daniel O Connell resided , known as ‘the Great Liberator’, check out his ‘golden chariot’ and walk around his house which is now like a museum.

Fancy a stroll? Check out the wild Derrynane beach or further on from Derrynane house the wonderful Derrynane back beach which is good for swimming and view the ancient little abbey etc.    Climbing up the winding hill from Derrynane you will see fantastic views as you reach Coomakista pass, stop and admire it near the Virgin Mary statue car park. Heading down from here towards Waterville (a favourite holiday haunt of Charlie Chaplin) one is greeted with fabulous views. 

Take a scenic drive out to Ballinskelligs and the Skellig driving ring (cars only) away from the main tourist drag and take a stop in the lovely little seaside café of café cois tra near the little castle , the Skellig area  was home to early Christian monks who settled in this area, from here you can see the Iconic crag of Skellig Mhicil (Unesco World Heritage site) and Star Wars film location, home to fantastic birdlife and ancient beehive huts where monks once lived . On next to St. Finans bay one can see more dramatic scenery taking a stop along here or at the Skellig viewpoint, perhaps stopping at the Chocolate factory for a nibble!

Next is the island of Valentia which has a convenient bridge to drive onto, Geokaun viewpoint mountain (where you can read a little about the history of the area) and Fogher cliffs are here and trips to the amazing Skellig Mhicil are from Valentia (depending on weather).  A ferry can be taken across to the mainland at Cahersiveen or take the road back across the way you came to the Island.

A great castle to explore is at Cahersiveen at Ballycarbery castle (take care strolling around the haunting ruins) or visit nearby Lecanabuaile stone fort!  Leaving Cahersiveen you will pass by rustic open fields and bogs before returning to magnificent views of the next peninsula, Dingle! 

  On we go passing Rossbeigh (nice beach and village to stop) from here one can see the mile long Inch strand where an Inch is a mile as they say! Driving through Killorglin and onto Castlemaine then you’re on a straight narrow stretch of road leading you onto the world famous Dingle Peninsula.

Take a stroll or a surf lesson on beautiful Inch strand! Onward to Dingle town with its celebrity dolphin, fabulous restaurants, lovely traditional shop fronts and lively and unique pubs .Irish music every night in this tourist hotspot. There is a tourist office here also. A great place to stay and chill out before the next stage of your adventure.

The drive out to Slea Head is fine for the most part but has some winding cliff side narrow sections so it’s not for every driver that being said get there regardless whether by bike, tour bus or walk some of it if you have to. You pass through Ventry village where horse races where held on the beach and where the Legendary Fionn mc Cuamhaill defeated the King of Spain, the king of France and wait for it The King of the World (allegedly).

 The coastal drive passes ancient beehive huts, forts and other notable archaeological features, indeed this area is ridiculously rich in archaeological treasures, as it meanders downward past abandoned famine cottages toward the stunning COUMEENOLE beach, great when sunny for sunbathing. Park up from it as the drive down gets progressively dodgy! From here you can see the Great Blasket Islands. The Spanish armada passed here fleeing from the British fleet with quite a few getting shipwrecked along this treacherous coast in 1588.  The headland here has a connection with an ancient Irish Goddess one can walk up from the car park along the head land for some great views of the Blasket islands.

The drive from here is truly magical look out at the ‘Fear Marbh (dead man ​island) and guess which one it is! We head now toward Ballyferriter deep within the Irish speaking ‘Gaeltacht’.

A nice hillwalk up Mount eagle gives panoramic views of this area described by National Geographic as ‘the most beautiful place on Earth!’ Stop at the little café where on the right as you drive along which has a good selection of Irish themed books and try the delicious fruit crumble! On we go to Dunquin pier and gaze down at the steep winding access to the beautifully located pier.

If inclined stop at the Blasket centre which shows how the islanders lived!  Great view from Clogher head you will see people strolling out there from where you can see’ The Three Sisters’ (I will let you guess what they are). There is plenty of room for exploring around here as you drive onto little Ballyferriter where you can hear Gaelic spoken in the pubs and shops and Ballydavid   with the majestic Mount Brandon above.

The Irish basis for the discovery of America hails from near here where St. Brendan of which the mountain is named set off in a skin hide boat in the 6th century. Riasc, Gallurus and Kilmakeader are well worth visiting (Early Christian sites).Try find the marriage stone in Kilmakeader .  Returning to Dingle again and leaving from here for the next leg one can either go over the quite scary driving route of the Conor pass with its stupendous views or drive from Dingle to Anascaul to Camp both routes bring you to Brandon Bay. Hill walkers can access Mount Brandon from this side also, from lovely and very quiet   Cloghane village. Plenty of bathing options along this huge bay with its miles of sandy beaches. Watersports are popular here with rental facilities by Castle Gregory village.

Leaving this area will be hard so consider staying back in Dingle or one of the towns around here where you will get a taste of Irish culture amid amazing scenery. If you have had enough of magic sea views consider a jaunt to Gleneentassig Park, mountain lakes and forests abound. Ideal for a private tour of Ireland.

Tralee is the largest town and Kerry and has quite a few characters, its Siamsa Tire theatre is renowned, entering Tralee you pass by Blennerville windmill and for the rainy day there is the indoor Aquadome. Check out Kerry County museum if history and exhibits is your bag. Ardfert has some ancient buildings with some character laden pubs. Head out to Banna if you haven’t had your fill of beaches yet! This is where an Irish patriot got arrested for attempting to bring thousands of rifles ashore to aid the fight for independence from England.

As we head along we pass the holiday spots of   Ballyheigue and Ballybunion with its Bill Clinton favoured Golf course. Another viewpoint is at Carrig Castle at the mouth of the mighty Shannon the longest river in Britain and Ireland. Your Kerry coast adventure ends near here. There is so much more to see and do along the coast and that’s just Kerry alone not to mention the inland countryside! From here one can get the ferry to Co. Clare and explore its Atlantic route, keep touring Kerry or do the wild Atlantic way Cork!

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